Onward…

La Guernica

La Guernica is one of Pablo Picasso’s most renowned works of art and I believe it rightly deserves the recognition.  I had seen the work many times in art history text books and on the internet but none of those modes of viewing could compare to the impact that this monstrous painting would have in real-life.  It’s housed in Madrid’s Reina Sofia museum, which is filled with outstanding examples of 20th-century Spanish art.  I wanted to make a post about La Guernica because I found the sheer size of this painting captivating, but the subject of the painting is even more awe-inducing than one might anticipate.

Location of Guernica in relation to Pamplona

The painting reflects the devastation inflicted upon the Spanish town, Guernica, during the Spanish Civil War.  On April 26th, 1937, the German air force together with the cooperation of Spanish dictator, Francisco Franco, bombed the town of Guernica resulting in an estimated 1,650 lives taken (read more about the bombing of Guernica here).  The painting has an entire room of the museum dedicated to its display.  On the opposing wall there are small frames of how the painting progressed, illustrating how Picasso formed the ideas for the painting and carried out the enormous task of painting this work.  I didn’t expect that this painting would have such an effect on me because, although I find Picasso’s work very interesting, I had never really felt a connection with it.  I was wrong, I was left standing in the doorway in awe just as all my other fellow museum-goers were doing.  If I have un consejo (a piece of advice) for anyone visiting Madrid and faced with the decision about where to go and what to see, I would tell them to visit La Reina Sofia.  The Spanish Civil War is a very important part of Spanish history and to see it illustrated in the way that Picasso has done with La Guernica is an opportunity that shouldn’t be missed.  After viewing La Guernica, the photographs in another part of the museum have a bigger, more influential impact than before.  Learning about the tragedy that occurred and really thinking about the lives lost in Guernica while your field of vision is entirely encompassed by this imposing work of art created by an authentic Spaniard gives an entirely new understanding and appreciation of the Spanish spirit.  You will leave the museum and see the world around you – the people, the architecture, the culture – all in a different way.  When Picasso stated that, “Every act of creation is first an act of destruction,” I’m not sure if he intended to reference La Guernica, but I feel that it is a perfect quote to accompany such a piece.  One thing that I was sure of after leaving La Reina Sofia; the vast act of creation of La Guernica definitely came from a devastating act of destruction.

Today I finally either became desperate enough or brave enough to get my hair cut in Pamplona.  It doesn’t really matter if it was desperation or bravery because the end result is the same; shorter, healthier hair.  A friendly and outgoing receptionist greeted me as I entered the salon and then directed me to a lovely middle-aged woman who patiently helped me decide how I wanted her to cut my hair.  She then washed my hair in the same manner as all the stylists I’ve been to in the US have and directed me to the chair where she began cutting my hair.  There was a moment of panic when she cut about four to five inches off in order to create the shortest layer.  I was a bit concerned as she kept cutting away while I was standing there (because my 6-month length of hair was far too long for her to cut it properly with me sitting in the chair).  She kept cutting, trimming, shaping and I have to say that the end result is not anything different than I would have expected in the US.  It wasn’t so terrible, with a few moments of confusion assisted by demonstrative motions both Pilar, my patient stylist, and I survived the experience.  I think I’m feeling brave enough to go back again… maybe less than 6 months this time.

Useful Vocab:

Caspas (see comment below) Capas – Layers

Corte de Pelo – Haircut

Cita de Antelación – Appointment in Advance

Recorte – Trim

Cortar – To Cut

Secar – To Dry

Ubicación de Vaiven

A week ago I decided to do some investigation in order to put my curiosity to rest.  I went with a couple of friends to one of the discotecas (dance clubs), Vaiven, in Pamplona in order to conduct some research.  What I found is that yes, indeed, people seem to be conforming to this new regulation and that no, the quantity of people in the club that night did not seem to be any less than during other previously conducted ‘essential research sessions’.  There was one point during the night that someone must have lit a cigarette.  The reason, either out of audacity or due to the effect of alcohol on the ability of the individual to remember that he or she can no longer smoke in a public place, I do not know.  Based on this night and the lone smoker witnessed, it seems as if Pamplona is adapting well to the change.

Do you live in Pamplona (or somewhere else in Spain)?  Did you have a different experience other than the one I’ve just shared?  Comment if you would like, I find it interesting to know how people are adapting to this change and the effect it’s having on the social life.

Looking back now, December nearly seems like a month of non-existence.  After my good fortune concerning my temporary lack of a brain that caused me to leave my passport in the taxi there was nothing that occurred to inspire me to share any stories.  It seems that we all seemed to be in a state of waiting.  Some of us were waiting for the semester to be over and to not have the obligation to go to classes for a little while, others were waiting to go home to their families either for the holidays or to return home permanently, and still others of us were really just waiting for nothing.  I identify myself with the last group of individuals.

I waited for classes to be over, I waited to say goodbye to friends, I waited to relax.

There is one certainty from it all and that is that the first four months living here in Spain have been influential.  I’ve met people that have created memories in my mind that will never be replaced at any other point in my life.  I’ve learned more about myself, become more independent, failed, tried, tried, and tried again.

Although December lacks anything tangible for me to recount, simply by existing and persevering through new situations I consider it significant.